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Jamieson Expedition 2009

It was a masterpiece of organization and a masterpiece of a trip, with great paddling, lots of drama and good company.   It started on Friday night.   Brandon and I arrived at Walter’s hoping that he’d be ready to go.   He was, in a fashion.   With no food, no clothes and a small bag with a sleeping bag, bivy bag and laptop there wasn’t much to get ready.   Now with Walter on board we headed up to Yea to meet up with the rest of the crew.   The crew was paddlers, Anthony, Peter, Gary, Brandon and me, Alison and champion shuttle bunnies, Walter and Bronwyn.

At Yea we met up at the pub and ordered meals, except for Walter.   He’d just have any left overs.   This was a theme of his weekend.   He actually did alright at Yea with chips and left over Parmigianino.   It was at this point that Gary realized that he didn’t have a deck.   Bronwyn lived nearby and had a deck.   Bron and I went to her place and found the deck.   We also grabbed some potatoes for Walter.

It was on to Mansfield and a caravan park for the night.   We found that Bron’s deck didn’t fit so there was a late night call to Geoff to bring any deck he could find.   Peter and Walter bivyied out in the recreation room while the rest of us shared the cabin.   Walter was planning that the camping fee would be his only cost for the weekend!  

The next day it was an early rise and pack up.   Geoff arrived on time to join the trip and Bronwyn made a quick trip to the bakery, returning with a coffee scroll for Walter.   We loaded up the two four wheel drives, fueled up and headed off.   First to Sheepyard Flat and the Howqua River and then on to the Jamieson River at the Upper Jamieson Hut.

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One of the Geoff’s decks fitted Gary’s boat so he was a starter.   As the paddlers prepared for the paddle the shuttle bunnies received their vehicle instructions from the vehicle owners and cleared the first tree across the road.   The plan was for Bron and Walter to drive the four wheel drives to Wren’s Flat via some pretty rough roads.   It should be shorter than going all the way around via Mansfield and Jamieson.   The paddlers would head down the river and we’d all meet at Wren’s Flat, hopefully before darkness.   The drivers didn’t know what the road in front of them was like and the paddlers had never paddled this section.   It was going to be an adventurous day!

With the GPS, satellite phone, UHF radio and new EPERB with us we headed off down the river.   The river was a quick flowing stream and not long after the start we entered a small gorge.   Tree ferns and mossy rocks lined the river and there was a series of good rapids.   Huge logs dammed the river and created fun drops.   Anthony was the first casualty but he wouldn’t be the last.

Before long we were out of the gorge and into an open, flatter section of the river.   A hut appeared on the left bank and our endless involvement with logs started.   We went over but mainly squeezed under, around or portaged, numerous logs.   It was getting a bit frustrating.   We stopped for lunch around 1.30 p.m. and discovered that we’d only covered a third of the distance.   The logs were really slowing us down.   I kept half my lunch just in case it became my dinner!

We continued on.   The gradient started to increase and the valley narrowed.   On one good rapid Geoff and I had scouted and were down at the bottom when Gary ended up on the wrong line,   He came out of his boat and was swept under a log.   He managed to hang onto the log to prevent him from going under it.   Anthony got a line on him and with Brandon, dragged him onto a rock.   Gary lay there while he got his wind back.


We still had a way to go so a now bootieless Gary was back in his boat and we continued on.   The plan was to see where we were at 5.30 and then made a decision about continuing or staying out for the night.

We knew that there was a second gorge near the end of the section.   The river felt a bit gorge like so perhaps we were close to the end.   It was then that we really came to the second gorge and you wouldn’t mistake it.   There were sheer cliffs on either side and the largest set of rapids we’d seen in front of us!

Geoff and I scouted the rapid with Anthony and Brandon following.   Gary decided that he would portage and with Peter’s assistance managed to get around the first drop.   But there was a lot more of the rapid to go and no way it could be portaged.   They returned to their boats.   I dropped into the next eddy which was near a log.   The camera out and filming Peter came over the drop and rammed straight into me.   I was pushed backwards into the current.   With an expletive passing my lips, I grabbed for my paddle and managed to make it to the next eddy.  

There was a short pool between this rapid the next which looked an even longer grade 4 rapid.   We were working out way down when Gary missed an eddy and ended half upside down against a wall.   I dropped into the eddy beside him and helped him up.   Immediately to my left, across the line was a log.   While I was helping Gary, Brandon landed on top of us and then went up side down under the log.   I set off after a swimming Brandon but he managed to pull himself out on to a log.

I paddled the rest of the rapid chasing Brandon’s boat.   As I did so Anthony’s boat, without Anthony went passed.   I looked upstream, now Brandon and Anthony were sitting next to each other on the log.   Geoff was also down so I went after the two boats.

After I’d dealt with the two boats I paddled back to the bottom of the rapid.   Geoff was busy emptying Gary’s boat.   Apparently Gary had also ended up side down and was the third wise monkey on the log.   Peter came to their rescue and using a throw rope managed to get everyone over to some flat rocks.   Peter and Anthony then managed to get the others down to where Geoff and I were, using the throw rope and floating Peter’s boat.

It was now getting close to 6 p.m. and the light was fading quickly.   The GPS said we were less than a k from the camp and about 10 minutes later we arrived, much to the relief of Bronwyn and Walter, and ourselves!

Suzan and KeesJan had arrived during the afternoon and we were also joined by a wayward hunting Beagle.   We relaxed by the fire, eating dinner and drinking some well earned alcohol.   Walter survived on the potatoes and the generosity of others.

The next day and the plan is to paddle from our camp at Wren’s Flat to the gauge near Jamieson, an even longer paddle.   Geoff has to head home and Gary, Peter and Brandon are casualties from yesterday’s paddle.   But we have some new paddlers for day 2, Ian, Brendon, Suzan, KeesJan and Val and Walter has borrowed gear from Brandon to change sides from the shuttle bunnies to the paddlers.

After the briefing we take to the river.   It is still a fast flowing stream but more water is entering to boost the volume.   Ian is the first swimmer of the day.   It isn’t long before a series of rapids signals the gorge and the best rapids of the day.   The gorge is very narrow and steep sided.   The main rapids are a series of drops with small pools in between culminating in the best rapid, the  washing machine.

Walter and I scout down the rapids.   The next thing Ian is floating down, his boat upside down and his paddle in his hand.   He dislodges a log, which also starts floating down.   There is only the washing machine in front of him.   We call to him to abandon his boat and find a spot to climb out.   His blue boat is last scene churning in the washing machine.   The floating log, meanwhile has wedged against another log which is across the river.

I managed to climb out of my boat and Brendon secures it on the floating log.   After roping Ian to the more accessible side of the gorge we are looking under control.   But meanwhile upstream they have dramas of their own.   Val decided to portage but hasn’t taken his boat.   The others are trying to manage it down the gorge.   If the glass boat gets into the washing machine its likely to be damaged.   We need to get it off the river.

Anthony floats it down to Walter who manages to get a line on it.   Between Brendon and Anthony they get it under control and into a spot where it can be portaged around the washing machine.   Walter heads down the washing machine to be safety at the bottom.   But the Washing machine takes its toll and after being washed up the cliff Walter is upside down and swimming.   He must rescue himself.

It’s now time to brave the washing machine.   I ask Brendon to retrieve my boat from the log.   It’s not as easy as it looks and in his struggle, Brendon dislodges the floating log.   The log with my boat still attaches is now floating towards the rapid.   A series of expletives from me doesn’t stop it.   Both boat and log are trashed in the rapid, but fortunately not pinned.   I look to Walter to rescue my boat but he’s walking along the bank.   My pride and joy disappears from view.

In front of me is the rapid I’d come to paddle but I no longer have a boat.   Suzan takes pity on me and asks if I’d like to paddle her boat.   She had no sooner uttered the words than I was helping her out of the boat.   Now for the washing machine.

There was more volume than last time I’d paddled it.  As you reach the lip you realize how much of a drop there is and how swirly the water is but there’s no going back.   A great adrenalin rush with a roll to end it.

Now it was off to find my boat.   A few hundred metres below I found it.   A large log across the river had jammed the floating log.   My boat, still attached to the floating log, was under the big log.   After recovering it I headed back up to the others, at a small rapid after the washing machine.

They’d been roping Val’s boat down the rapid when the throw rope became caught on something in the rapid.   Their best efforts couldn’t release it.   There was nothing for it but to cut the rope, unfortunately it was my good throw rope!

The gorge had taken a lot of our time and we still had a lot of the river in front of us.   It was head down and paddle with the occasional portage around a log.   A quick stop for lunch where I gave Walter my second peanut butter sandwich and then back to the river.   There was a reasonable flow so we made good headway.   Finally we reached Granny’s Flat and we knew we only had a few ks to go.   A few hundred metres from the gauge and the final portage, around a nasty section of willows.   It was then we realized that Walter wasn’t with us.

We waited for 15 minutes and he didn’t appear.   He couldn’t have been that far behind us and there were no rapids to speak of.   The second last paddlers said he hadn’t seen him since the last portage before Granny’s Flat (some 4 ks back!).   Anthony and Ian waited at the portage while the rest of us paddled to the gauge.

Bandon, Gary and Peter were waiting at the gauge (level was 1.8 if you’re interested).   We explained the situation and Brandon set off along the road to see if he’d walked out for some reason.   We got changed out of our paddling gear.   Brandon returned.   He’s gone as far as the gate across the road to Granny’s Flat.   There was no sign of Walter.   KeesJan and Suzan walked up the bank to join Anthony and Ian.   It was now 5.40, 40 minutes since we’d finished and only 20 minutes of daylight left.

Brendon and I agreed to go up as far as we could and do a sweep down the river.   The next step would be to call the Police and look at searching the banks.   We found a spot to access the river not far below Granny’s Flat.   It was a steep access but I managed to get down.   It was at that point that we got the message that Walter had been found.   (I wasn’t found.   I wasn’t lost. – Walter)   There was no going back up so Brendon came down the slope and we paddled down to the gauge to the fading light.

We stopped at the Yarch Pub for tea.   The food was good and we were all amazed when Walter actually ordered food and then shouted us garlic bread.   Perhaps he was feeling guilty.   But he’d blown his $16 weekend!

Thanks to Anthony for organizing the trip, to Walter and Bron for being ‘adventurous’ shuttle bunnies and for Gary, Brandon and Peter for shuttle bunnying on Sunday.

Alison